A good night’s sleep in very welcome Western style beds after two nights of authentic local mattresses on the floor. We didn’t even bat an eye when we saw they were twin beds.
Interestingly, all the Western style rooms are at the undesirable back end of the hotel, looking out over the road, whereas the Japanese rooms look out over the riverside onsens, the river itself and the forest beyond.
Early breakfast for another 7:45 taxi to the start of the final days walk. My cold is worse today, so I was determined not to push myself too hard. Within minutes of starting the morning’s climb, my companions had left me for dust. Very understandable, of course. Just like young healthy animals in the wild, who leave the old and infirm at the back to be picked off by predators. It’s all good, though. As any wilderness expert would tell you, the slowest member of the group should always be at the back. I was very happy, actually. Left to my own devices I could go at my own pace, slow and steady takes the race and all that. After about half an hour of steady climbing, feeling sorry for myself, I actually got my second wind, and started to enjoy myself.


We did around two hours of steady climbing, and then it was mostly downhill, with several small peaks just to show us who was boss.
Lunch was another bento box supplied by the hotel, and this was the best one yet. I couldn’t identify half of what I was eating but I ate it anyway because it was yummy. Very umami.
Early in the afternoon, I slid over on some gravel, but was able to do a rolling fall and avoid injuring myself. I had a slight graze on my leg but the worst part was it triggered my Apple Watch alarm, and I spent several anxious moments trying to stop it calling for an ambulance. I must review the settings for that alarm when I’m not under time pressure.
Early afternoon we arrived at the final shrine and waterfall which was lovely but we were most concerned about getting hold of a taxi. The others managed to flag one down while I was in the loo which was undesirable but couldn’t be helped.
We got a nasty shock when we checked in to find they had no Western rooms available and it was back to mattresses on the floor for us. We tried gamely to kick up a stink but there was no help for it, there were no Western rooms anywhere nearby so we reluctantly conceded defeat. We then learned dinner was included, a buffet which included unlimited alcoholic drinks, and that cheered us up no end.
Simon had paperwork to do and I was desperate for a nap so we left the others to explore the onsen situation, arranging to meet up later for dinner.
The hotel is actually an enormous resort complex arranged around some thermal pools but also including other entertainments like strange shops and arcade games. We had to wander past corridors of this to get to our restaurant for dinner. Like last night, most guests were wearing their Japanese style dressing gowns to dinner. The food was amazing, all sorts of Asian and Western foods although no bread to be seen. The chocolate fountain for dessert was particularly appreciated.
I thought we could plan a sleep in for the morning but unfortunately we have an early train to catch so I’ve set my alarm for 6:20. I’ve been taking painkillers for my sore throat so I hope that and the runny nose will settle so I can sleep.
Great sense of achievement for the last four days in any event.