What a fantastic city. Unbearably hot for much of the year, yes, but in autumn it is lovely.
We started the day with a hop on hop off tour – colloquially known as a “ho ho” tour, or so I’ve been told – not sure if someone was just pulling my leg with that one. It didn’t seem too promising at the start, as the nearest stop had a huge queue, and the bus drove off without letting us all on board. However, the next bus came within 20 minutes and we the four of us managed to get a seat together on the top level, which was open topped but with a cover, to shade us from the ferocious sun. We couldn’t get the app to work so had to resort to using a paper map; mortifying. However, the disposable earphones provided a perfectly adequate commentary, and as we’d already decided we were just going to stay on the bus for the first circuit, the long queues at some of the inner city stops wasn’t a problem. In fact it was a very handy way of getting a feel for the city.
After the tour we had lunch in a cute wee square nearby, and then I only had time for a short nap before the espadrille making workshop Rita had arranged. This was just for the ladies: the two men of our group were tasked with researching Alcazar tickets and drinking beer.
The workshop was at a small local shoe shop in the middle of the pedestrian shopping area, staffed by four young enthusiastic staff. We learnt a little about espadrilles and their history, and then our job was just the finishing touches on a pair of shoes that had already been made. Phew. This involved sewing on the ribbons, but we did also have to choose the style and colour of shoe, the colour of ribbon, and then which of the two patterns of ribbon decoration we wanted so it wasn’t all fun and games. Plus, they opened a bottle of cava for us to drink (the local sparkling white wine), which didn’t help with either technical skills or decision making. Interestingly enough, espadrilles were on my list of what stylish french women wear in summer but I hadn’t been able to find a pair in Wellington. So, I’m very pleased with what I ended up with.
Actually I’ve been wearing them all evening and they’ve been very comfortable. Now, if I can only work out how to tie them I’ll be sweet (I had to be strapped into them in the shop as I wasn’t dexterous enough to do them up myself).
After the tour there was only time to race back to the hotel for a wee before we headed back out to the Jewish quarter to join our next activity, a tapas tour. Our guide was a very lively local woman called Clara. She had a double degree in history and anthropology, and came from a nearby small town that specialises in olives. She is taking food tours because she couldn’t face a life of olive picking.
The tour company is called Devour, and it was actually started in Europe by a Kiwi bloke whose name escapes me, but has expanded across the world. We did a similar tour in Portugal, but this one was even better. I’d recommend them if you’re ever in a city that does them. We tried different types of food and alcohol at four different establishments. It was great fun and I learned so much, the four hours just flew by.
We finished around ten, and the centre of town was just started to heat up. People were everywhere eating and drinking inside and on the streets, but the vibe was really nice. No violence, there were lots of gorgeous well dressed people, as well as children and older folk out and about as well. It was lovely. I wish home was more like this.
We’d had a big day, though, so it was back to the hotel to bed for us.
I’m going to try to list what we ate and drank:
Vermouth with cold tapas, thinly sliced Iberian ham on bread and potatoes with olive oil, garlic, red onions, and capsicums I think?
Orange wine with Montego cheese and slices of pork belly.
Some sort of dry sherry, with thinly sliced rehydrated cod on bread with a sauce on top, also cured tuna on bread.
Red wine of summer, ie with ice and lemonade (sprite or 7 up), apparently this is what Spanish people really drink in summer, not Sangria which is just for tourists and consequently very overpriced.
Small ham sandwiches, the local equivalent of sliders, invented in the little bar we visited and very popular, they make 2000 a night!
Fried crumbed marinated shark
pork cheek stew
chickpea and spinach with paprika, cumin, and garlic, the classic local “holy trinity” of spices. Vegan!
A dessert of egg yolks and sugar, originally made by nuns. Nuns seemed to do a lot of cooking back in the day, if the local sweet specialties in Spain and Portugal are anything to go by. I suppose the monks spent their free time brewing beer, each to their own.
PS They’ve sent an email with all the info I just tried to remember. I did pretty well I think.
